My Rose Garden
MY ROSE GARDEN
I started my rose garden in March 1998. In my
garden you will find...
**Absolutely - 1998 New England Rose Trail Award
ARS Rateing: NR
Color: Creamy white outer petal's with
reserse yellow inner petals
are pale yellow, dusting of
apricot pink.
Description: Slightly frangrant, well formed.
**Chicago Peace - 1962
ARS Rating: 7.7
Color: Pink with carey yellow base.
Description: 5"-5-1/2" double; slight
fragrant; more intense color than
"Peace"; good cut.
**Child's Play - 1991, AARS 1993, ARS Award of
Excellence 1993
ARS Rating: NR
Color: White and pink bicolor.
Description: Medium sized semidouble, high,
centered borne singly and
insprays for 3 or more sweet
fragrance.
**Montezuma - Gold Medal Certificate, ARS 1948
ARS Rating: 8.0
Color: Salmon and orange.
Description: 3" - 4-1/2" frangrant, long-
lasting blooms/strong stems.
**Rainbow's End - 1984, ARS Award of Excellence 1996
ARS Rating: 9.0
Color: Deep yellow with red edges, ages red
all over.
Description: Small double; hybird tea form,
prolific constant; no fragrance.
**Teddy Bear - New
ARS Rating: NR
Color: Unique terra cotta (russet)
Description: Upright and vigorous, bloom in
profuseone to a stem.
********************AND GROWING******************
WHAT I FOUND OUT AND WORKS FOR ME.
1. CHOOSING A ROSE
After deciding on location, plant size, and
color scheme it's time to select varieties.
There is an astounding array of plants available
in almost every conceivable combination of
characteristics. Nearly two hundred and fifty
different roses. Don't be over whelmed by the
large number; once you've decided on the
characteristics you want in a rose, the list
becomes more mangeable.
2. STARTING OUT WITH A NEW ROSE BUSH
A. Dig a hole as deep as the container and
5" TO 6" wider than it is.
B. Fill with a little soil and water.
Watering will help roots take to there
new invironment.
C. Fill with more soil to the top. Water
well and ferilizer. (My favorite is
Roses Miracle Grow.)
D. Water twice a day (if no rain) and once
a week with ferilizer.
3.
PRUNING
A. Pruning can and should be done at any
time to shape the plants or remove
spent blooms.
B. When cutting flowers or removing spent
blooms, cut the cane above a five-leaf
leaflet.
C. Removing spent blooms and cutting flower
will encourage the planet to produce
even more blooms.
After the first year, spring pruning consists of
cutting away dead canes and spindly wood.
PRUNING OLD GARDEN ROSES
Old roses also shold be pruned lightly. Prune one-
time bloomers after flowering and repeat bloomers
winter or early spring.
Alba - Remove twiggy growth and cut back recent
growth by one third after flowering.
Bouron and Portland - In winter cut back the main
canes by one third and the side shoots to
buds. Trim twiggy growth after blooming.
Centifolia and Moss - Reduce the canes and cut back
growth by one third after blooming to produce
a bushier plant.
Damask - Remove twiggy growth after flowering; cut
back laternal shoots to three sets of
leaves. Cut back main canes to increase
if desired.
Gallica - Remove twiggy growth after the flowers bloom.
Shape lighty during the winter if desired.
Hybrid Perpetual - After the plants bloom, cut back
the main shoots by one third and shorten the
side shoots.
Noistte - Prune bush forms as you would a hybird
tea. Prune climbing forms as you would a
blooming climber.
Tea - Prune lightly as you would a
hybird tea rosebush.
RATING
YOUR ROSES AMERICAN ROSE SOCIETY RATINGS
Every three years the ARS surveys it's memberships
in all parts of the United States for their
ratings on the roses they've grown. Varieties and
cultivars are rated on a scale of 1 to 10, and the
results published annually in the Handbook for
Selecting Roses. The ARS breaks down the ratings
qualitatively in the following ratings:
10.0 Perfect (Not yet achieved)
9.0-9.9 Outstanding
8.0-8.9 Excellent
7.0-7.9 Good
6.0-6.9 Fair
5.9 and lower Of questionable value.
MULCHING MATERIALS ADD BEAUTY TO YOUR GARDEN
Bark - Available commercially in chips form or
finely ground. Very attractive and long
lasting.
Sawdust, wood chips or wood shavings - Low plant
nutrients; depcomposes slowly; tends to
to back down. Well-compossed material
perferred, although fresh wood products can
be used. When used as a surface mulsh,
fresh wood doesn't deplete nitrogen
supply as it does when worked into the
soil. (Normal fertilizer program will take
care of nitrogen requirements of
uncomposted wood mulsh.) Keep away from
building foundations; may attract
termites.
Grass clippings or hay - Probably the most readily
available, but unattractive. Let dry
before spreading. Repeated use builds up
reserve of nutrients that last for years.
Tree leaves (whole or shredded) - Excellent source
humus. Rots rapidly; high in nutrients.
Landscaping fabric - Excellent. Discourages weeds
while allowing water topenetrate. Can be
covered with thin layer of bark or other
materical for a more attractive appearance.
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